The Journey to Northern Italy’s Traditional Cuisine #1 - Milan’s Traditional Eats
- Royi
- Jan 18
- 9 min read
I’ve heard it so many times among my friends, how Milan is disappointing, sometimes lacking character, and especially when it comes to its food. To be honest, I once shared those feelings. Over the years, I’ve come to know a city far rougher than the polished fashion-forward image attached to it. And when it came to food, I had to work hard to truly experience the best of Milanese cuisine. Milan has no shortage of fine dining restaurants and a diverse food scene befitting a metropolis, but the first time I really felt like I cracked the city’s food culture was when I discovered its traditional cuisine.
That journey required deep research and multiple visits to the city. I combed through countless dishes and restaurants, official websites of Lombardy (Milan’s home region), and Italian culinary articles, anything to get to the core of its authentic traditional cuisine. I feel that, on my last trip, I finally got to meet Milan’s culinary heritage for the first time.
In this post, I’ll try to share a bit of what I experienced and the path to discovering the city's and Lombardy’s signature dishes.
Dear Diary
When I planned my first visit to Milan years ago, all I ever heard or read about was its fashion, design, and luxury. In fact, it seemed like the kind of place that would make me feel like a true country mouse. Milan was never my main destination in Italy; it was always more of a transit city. But each time I visited with family or friends, we tried to experience it as much as possible.
Over multiple visits, we found ourselves wandering through the glamorous Brera district, strolling along the picturesque Navigli canals, admiring the Duomo towering proudly above the crowds, and simply letting our feet guide us through Milan’s side streets and diverse neighborhoods. I encountered a fascinating blend of history and modernity, the contrasts between rough and refined, and a constant shift between past and future. Yet, despite four visits, my experience, and that of my travel companions, always felt incomplete, we couldn’t quite grasp the city. That changed on the fifth visit.
For me, a city’s identity is often revealed through its local cuisine. Milan, like any major city, offers an endless variety of restaurants and cuisines from around the world. But I was searching for the dishes that told the story of a city that is, first and foremost, the capital of Lombardy. Despite some unforgettable sushi experiences (yes, not what I expected to leave a mark in Italy), I hadn’t found dishes that truly captured Milan’s essence.
Recently, that changed. While planning a culinary trip to Emilia-Romagna, Milan was once again set to be just a transit stop. But this time, I decided to prepare in advance and conduct thorough research to truly experience the city’s cuisine. I mapped out local dishes and the most authentic places to eat them. The result? I discovered a side of Milan that had eluded me for years, a humble food scene deeply rooted in history and tradition, offering a genuinely authentic and enriching experience. Suddenly, among luxury storefronts and graffiti-covered walls, I found comforting food that gave me a sense of home and warmth, far from the confused identity I had encountered before.
What traditional food to eat in Milan?
First, let’s talk about what’s not commonly eaten in Milan.
Pasta. Yes, you read that right. Contrary to the common belief that Italian cuisine is all about pasta, Northern Italy also relies heavily on rice and corn, which are widely used in its traditional cuisine (in the form of risottos and polenta). In fact, Lombardy, together with Piedmont, is responsible for most of the rice grown in Italy! It seems that in Lombardy alone, 63% of the crops are rice. Additionally, the region's cuisine features many rich dishes based on meat and seasonal vegetables. From what I’ve seen so far, pasta doesn’t play a major role in Milanese traditional cuisine.
The traditional dishes of Milan:
Mondeghili
One of my absolute favorites! These are meatballs, but unlike the ones we’re familiar with, mondeghili are made from already cooked meat, which is then fried. Traditionally, they were a way to make full use of leftover meat, but today, restaurants may prepare them from fresh meat specifically for this dish. They can be served plain or with different sauces, but either way, they make for an excellent Milanese appetizer.
Insalata di nervetti
A rather unusual dish that reminded me of Eastern European cuisine, but we’re here for authentic local food, not crowd-pleasers. This is a traditional Milanese salad made from veal cartilage marinated in vinegar and served cold with onions and parsley. Yes, I know how that sounds. But despite its unconventional appearance, I really enjoyed it! especially for those who enjoy Eastern European flavors.
Riso al salto
Back to more enticing dishes, this is a pan-fried risotto, a kind of large crispy rice pancake made from day-old risotto fried in butter. It’s golden and crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, a fantastic twist on classic risotto. Like many traditional dishes, it originated as a way to repurpose leftovers.
Risotto alla Milanese
Perhaps the signature dish of Milanese cuisine and one that many are already familiar with, a rich, creamy risotto cooked in chicken, beef, or vegetable broth, with a golden hue from saffron. The Milanese touch, besides the saffron, is the use of bone marrow mixed into the rice. It’s usually served as a first course or as a side dish, often accompanying the next classic dish.
Ossobuco alla Milanese
Milan’s most famous meat dish. When prepared correctly, the veal shank is tender and falls off the bone, served with gremolata (a refreshing mixture of parsley, garlic, and lemon zest). And, of course, there’s the long spoon for the marrow, a Milanese tradition. It’s typically paired with risotto or polenta. In the most traditional places, the portion sizes are enormous, enough to keep you full for a week.
Trippa alla milanese (or Busecca)
Back to the more adventurous dishes, this one made me hesitate before trying it, and to be honest, I still haven’t. It’s a very traditional Lombard stew made from cow’s stomach, usually cooked with onions, carrots, celery, and often beans. It’s a seasonal dish, typically served in winter.
Cassoeula
This one is for those looking to fully immerse themselves in traditional cuisine. Cassoeula is a hearty cabbage stew with pork. So far, so good, right? But it gets more challenging when you realize that the pork used includes less conventional parts, like pig snout, feet, and offal.
Cotoletta alla Milanese
The Viennese have the "Wiener Schnitzel," and the Milanese have the cotoletta, the schnitzel of Milan. There are different versions of this dish across Italy (such as in Bologna), but Milan’s version is the one most similar to the Viennese style. It features a slightly thick veal cutlet, served on the bone, coated in breadcrumbs, and fried in butter. Like Ossobuco, it’s a generously sized dish, often enough for two, so think carefully before ordering a starter, I learned that the hard way!
Minestrone alla milanese
Italy's famous vegetable soup has different variations across the country, and Milan has its own version too. Typically cooked with rice and seasonal vegetables, you might not find tomatoes in it, unlike other versions. It can be found in traditional restaurants mainly during winter, and to be honest, as a summer person, I haven’t had the chance to try it yet!
Traditional Desserts
Barbajada
Time for something sweet from Milan’s traditional kitchen. This is the city's mysterious dessert, one that’s actually quite hard to find and is slightly more common in winter. It’s a rich, creamy drink made with chocolate and coffee, topped with whipped cream. Invented in the late 19th century, over time, it became less popular in cafés and seems to be enjoyed more at home. After extensive research, I found a handful of places that serve it year-round, see the list below.
Panettone
Milan’s festive Christmas cake. It’s a light and airy cake with raisins and candied citrus peel, giving it a delicate citrusy flavor. Forgive me, Italians, but it reminded me of a mix between a marble cake and a classic orange cake. Its preparation is labor-intensive, so you’ll mostly find it during Christmas. It’s usually sold as a whole cake rather than by the slice, but I did find a few places that serve slices all year round, perfect for a morning treat or an afternoon snack with coffee. See the list below!
Where to eat traditional dishes in Milan
I analyzed hundreds of places and local reviews to create a list that I believed would give me the best local experience. After five trips to Milan, I feel confident that it did. The list is extensive, but here, I’ll share the places I tried and loved the most.
Al Matarel Via Laura Solera Mantegazza, 5, 20121 Milano MI, Italy | A long-established, homey restaurant that celebrates the cuisine of Milan and Lombardy. You'll find Ossobuco, Nervetti, Risotto, Cotoletta, Cassoeula (mainly in winter), and more. I enjoyed every dish I ordered, and it was the most authentic dining experience I had in the city. It has gained significant attention in recent years, and I was worried it might be a "tourist trap," but I got a completely different impression (though there were a bit more tourists than in other places I visited). |
Osteria Brunello Corso Garibaldi, 117, 20121 Milano MI, Italy | A restaurant that offers a slightly more modern and upscale interpretation of traditional cuisine in the Brera district. The service was excellent and highly professional. I had Risotto, Mondeghili, and even Barbajada there. Highly recommended. |
Ristorante Da Berti Via Timavo, 8, 20124 Milano MI, Italy | At Da Berti, I had a Cotoletta that left no room for more local delights, but I was more than satisfied. The restaurant is away from the city's hustle and bustle, in a quiet area that seems to attract mainly locals who treat it as their go-to spot. Their courtyard is a great bonus on sunny days. The menu also included classic dishes like Riso al salto and Risotto with Ossobuco, with a strong focus on meats. |
Cova Via Monte Napoleone, 8, 20121 Milano MI, Italy | A historic café and bakery (since 1817) that serves panettone year-round. You can enjoy it there or take it home in elegant packaging. I picked mine up from the Montenapoleone location and savored every bite. They also serve Barbajada! look for it on the menu under the name Covaccino. |
All the restaurants I mentioned usually require a reservation in advance.
If you're eager to experience Cassoeula, check out La Cassoeula del Togn, a long-standing restaurant specializing exclusively in this dish.
And here’s what my Milan map looks like (and there’s even more beyond the edges!). If you’d like the full list, send me a message, I’d be happy to share it.
A word on prices
Milan is an expensive city, and so are the traditional restaurants I visited. The minimum I spent on a main course alone for lunch was €30, but when adding a starter, a glass of wine, and maybe dessert, the bill easily reached €50–60. On the bright side, service is already included in the bill, look for the word Coperto.
When it’s less Ideal to experience traditional Milanese cuisine
July and August are not the best months for traditional dining, as many of these restaurants close for their summer break. This is true across Italy as far as I know, but I can particularly vouch for this from my experiences in the north. While the city is filled with tourists, many Italians prioritize their summer holidays over making extra money, meaning a significant number of local spots will be closed.
Fun fact: In 2023, Italians were responsible for nearly half of all nights spent in hotels across the country (49.2%). Domestic tourism is a huge part of Italy’s economy! (source)
For those who insist on pasta
I get it, you're in Italy, how can you not eat pasta? If you must, here’s a recommendation: Pasta Fresca Da Giovanni, a tiny spot in the Navigli district that serves simple dishes made from fresh, home-made pasta. It seems like it's only open for a few hours, and there’s often a long line at lunchtime, but I highly recommend it.
Address: Via Ascanio Sforza, 31, 20136 Milano MI, Italy
Marché San Marco, farmers’ market in Milan
Whenever I stay in an apartment, I try to visit local markets to buy fresh fruits and vegetables. Traditional restaurants in northern Italy aren’t exactly known for their salads, so every now and then, I feel the need to balance things out with a small homemade one. It’s also a great way to experience the city like a local and discover fresh regional ingredients.
On my last trip, I stayed in the Porta Nuova area, and on my way back from lunch, I stumbled upon a lovely farmers’ market called Marché San Marco, which had a great selection of local produce. The figs were in season and were some of the sweetest I’ve ever had!
Address: Via S. Marco, 15, 20121 Milano MI, Italy
A quick tip: From my visits to markets across northern Italy, I’ve learned that vendors don’t like it when you pick your own vegetables, unlike what i'm used to. Instead, the stall owner selects them for you and bags them up. When I asked politely, they were happy to let me choose, but without touching the produce. It was a bit of an unusual experience for me, sometimes even frustrating, and honestly, I prefer the market culture back home. But at least it improved my pointing accuracy!
Final thoughts
To me, Milan’s traditional dishes reflect the city’s character. Just like its neighborhoods, some dishes are refined and elegant, like Risotto alla Milanese, while others are more rustic, like Nervetti. One thing is certain: this journey showed me a different side of Milan, a character I hadn’t noticed in previous visits. Maybe there really is something to this city after all.